FREE Cabled Crochet Shawl Stitch Pattern + YouTube Tutorial

Crochet Cables might be overwhelming for the first time but with the help of this Free Pattern, Video Tutorial, Stitch Diagram and Step-by-Step Photo Tutorial I am confident you can can succeed in making this crochet shawl with cables! Make sure to read this whole blog post, especially the “Pattern Notes” section for some great tips.

This cabled crochet shawl pattern was designed using Wool-Ease Recycled from Lion Brand Yarn and the full pattern is included in this blog post.

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FREE Cabled Crochet Shawl Stitch Pattern

Pattern Description

I put a lot of effort into this cabled crochet wrap to make sure that this is a great pattern for many skill levels. While the pattern itself is considered an advanced skill level I believe that even a beginner cable maker can successfully create these cable stitches.

I have made it a habit to include crochet charts in all of my new patterns involving cables as it helps tremendously to in your creating of a finished product. The written pattern has been created in US Terms and special stitches are explained below.

For this cabled wrap I have also included a step-by-step picture tutorial to help with stitch placement and understanding where to place your next st.

A great tip is to place stitch markers at the beginning and end of the repeats in the stitch pattern so that it is easy for you to check your stitch count on cable rows.

As stated in the “Pattern Notes” below, the stitch count does not change the right side or the wrong side. When working your front post double crochet stitches or front post bobble stitches, they count as a worked stitch in your row so be sure to skip the single crochet behind when creating your cable row.

If you feel that you have too tight of a tension on your front post double crochet stitches try using front post treble crochet stitches instead.

The cable in this pattern is worked over 13 stitches. You can make this garden wrap in a different size by adding or reducing repeats by 13 stitches.

Yarn Substitutes

Vanna’s Choice
Basic Stitch
Wolol-Ease Classic
Heartland
Color Theory

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Materials

6.00 mm Crochet Hook
6 Skeins of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Recycled in Terracotta [632-137G]
#4 Worsted Weight Yarn – 1176 yards

Gauge

16 sts by 18 rows in sc is 4 by 4 inches.
Be sure to create a gauge swatch, if your gauge is too small go up a hook size or if you gauge is too big got down a hook size.
Trust your gauge on this project, blocking is VERY important. You will block AFTER you finish and this wrap grows significantly.

Sizing

One Size – 16.5” wide x 47.5” long before blocking.
16.5” wide x 56” long after blocking.

Stitch Descriptions and Abbreviations

Chain Stitch – ch
Slip Stitch – sl st
Stitch(es) – st(s)
Skip – sk
Previous – prev
Single Crochet – sc
Foundation Single Crochet – Fsc – Chain 2, insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 1 loop, (2 loops on hook with 1 ch created), yarn over, draw through all loops (1 loop on hook, 1 foundation single crochet with chain at the bottom). *Insert hook to the bottom of the stitch you just made, it will look like the top or “V” of a stitch, yarn over, pull up 1 loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through 1 loop (2 loops on hook with 1 ch created), yarn over, draw through all loops;* repeat from * to * for desired amount of stitches.
Front Post Double Crochet – FPdc -Work a double crochet as you normally would by placing your hook from front to back to front around the post of the designated stitch.
Front Post Bobble – FPbo – Work a bobble stitch as you normally would by placing your hook from front to back to front around the post of the designated stitch, in this pattern it will be in a single crochet one row below.

Pattern Notes

One Size – 16.5” wide x 47.5” long before blocking and 16.5” wide x 56” long after blocking.
* Designates a repeat.
“sc 1” means to single crochet in the next stitch.
“sc 2” means to single crochet in each of the next 2 stitches.
“2 sc” means to single crochet twice in the next stitch to create an increase.
When a FPdc is created you must make sure to skip the stitches behind in the round you are working. For Example: When you “FPdc 2” you must skip 2 sc sts in the previous row leaving them unworked, so each row has the same number of sts, this is NOT noted in the row instructions.
You will have the same number of stitches in all cable rows as single crochet rows.
When skipping single crochet stitches in Row 3 to create the Cable Foundation you will be counting forward from the corresponding single crochet stitch created in Fsc Row 1.
Reference the stitch diagram for the repeats and proper stitch placement, note that FPdc sts are worked in FPdc sts but for clarity the diagram does NOT show the overlap.
FPdc sts are always worked in FPdc sts with the exception of Row 3 where the FPdc sts are worked in Foundation Single Crochet Stitches of Row 1 to set up the Foundation FPdc sts.
Also when noted on Rows 9, 13 and 17 you will have to create your FPdc and/or FPbo in a sc stitch 2 rows below the current working row.

Cable Crochet Garden Wrap

Row 1 – Fsc 65.
Row 2 – Turn, sc 65.
Row 3 – Turn, sc 2, FPdc in 4th Fsc, sc 2, sk 1 Fsc, FPdc in next Fsc, sc, sk 1 Fsc, FPdc in next Fsc, sc 2, sk 1 Fsc, FPdc in next Fsc, sc 2, *sc 2, sk 6 Fsc, FPdc in next Fsc, sc 2, sk 1 Fsc, FPdc in next Fsc, sc, sk 1 Fsc, FPdc in next Fsc, sc 2, sk 1 Fsc, FP dc in next Fsc, sc 2, repeat from * 3 more times.
Row 4 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 5 – Turn, *sc 2, FPdc in FPdc, sc, FPdc in FPdc, sc 3, FPdc in FPdc, sc, FPdc in FPdc, sc 2, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 6 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 7 – Turn, *sc 3, sk 1 FPdc, FPdc in next, sc 5, FPdc in next FPdc, sk 1 FPdc, sc 3, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 8 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 9 – Turn, *sc 2, FPdc in FPdc, sc, FPbo in corresponding sc 2 rows below next to FPdc, sc 3, FPbo in corresponding sc 2 rows below before next FPdc, sc, FPdc in next FPdc, sc 2, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 10 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 11 – Turn, *sc, FPdc in FPdc, sc 9, FPdc in FPdc, sc, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 12 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 13 – Turn, *sc, FPdc in FPdc, FPbo in corresponding sc 2 rows below next to FPdc, sc 2, FPdc in corresponding sc 2 rows below, sc, sk 1-sc, FPdc in corresponding sc 2 rows below, sc 2, FPbo in corresponding sc 2 rows below before next FPdc, FPdc in next FPdc, sc, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 14 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 15 – Turn, *sc 2, FPdc in FPdc, sc, FPdc in next FPdc, sc 3, FPdc in next FPdc, sc, FPdc in next FPdc, sc 2, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 16 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 17 – Turn, *sc 3, sk 1 FPdc, FPdc in next, sc, FPdc in corresponding sc 2 rows below, sc, FPdc in corresponding sc 2 rows below, sc, FPdc in next FPdc, sk next FPdc, sc 3, repeat from * 4 more times.
Row 18 – Turn, sc in each stitch.
Row 19 – Turn, *sc 2, FPdc in FPdc, sc 2, FPdc in FPdc, sc 1, FPdc in FPdc, sc 2, FPdc in FPdc, sc 2, repeat from * 4 more times.
Repeat Rows 4 to 19 – 12 more times.
Final Row – Turn, sc in each stitch, finish off.